Kayaking to Stocking Island

I’m happy to report that my kayaking days took a turn for the better after that first windy day. Weather conditions improved each time we went out as did my skills and confidence. I still have a lot to learn but Chris has been setting me simple tasks which mean that I’m getting better all the time. I'm comfortable using the rudder now and able to cope a lot better with waves, although I still prefer calmer conditions. Call me old fashioned but I think kayaking at dusk should be more akin to a romantic stroll, rather than a roller coaster ride!

After a few hour-long sessions we decided to take the plunge (no pun intended) and spend a full day kayaking. There’s a great cay north of Great Exuma called Stocking Island which has a beach bar and a volleyball pitch. It’s a great place to chill out and a perfect lunch spot.

As soon as we set off I was delighted to see that my paddling was far stronger than only a few days before. I was putting into practice the skills I had been learning which meant that I was (hopefully) using less energy to make my kayak go further. I still hadn't deciphered Chris’s riddle to “move the boat, not the water” but nevertheless I was making good progress! 

We quickly reached the nearest groups of sailing boats – a destination that had thwarted me on the first day. Passing them with a wave, we went under a low, narrow bridge with, I must confess, a little shrieking on my part! Chris captured this on video so we’ll be putting it on YouTube soon - I'll make sure to add a link here.

We paddled up past Georgetown harbour, along some smaller cays and stopped on a beautiful, deserted beach for a break and some biscuits. We generally don’t leave shore without a good supply of snacks – it’s as vital as sunscreen here! We spent some time lazing on the beach enjoying the peacefulness.

Eventually we got back on the water to make the crossing to Stocking Island. We were leaving the shoreline and crossing a bay and so it was harder to gauge how much progress we were making. This can often make the distance seem a lot further than it is but with the promise of a delicious lunch waiting for us at Chat "N" Chill our spirits were high.

Due to the leisurely pace of the day, it was well past lunchtime when we arrived and the biscuits were a long forgotten treat. I was hungry and as a result I was beginning to feel the impact of the last 4 hours of paddling.  We pulled our kayaks up onto the beach to rest beside a whole host of inflatable dinghies that bring the boaters to the island each day. We headed straight for the bar to place our food order and sat looking out to sea with a cold beer. I had to admit it was nice to be out of the boat - I definitely wasn't up for any volleyball action that afternoon! 

Stocking Island is home to some friendly southern stingrays that linger near the shore line and are fed on leftover conch. It’s a fantastic experience to stand in the sea and watch them swim right up to you, often passing right over your feet. They’re incredible to feel, quite silky smooth yet amazingly sturdy, and if you’re brave enough you can feel them hoovering up the food from the palm of your hand.  

After eating tasty conch burgers and rice and peas (a common meal here), we had just another hour of paddling to take us back home. It had been a great day and despite my aching shoulders, I knew I was ready for the three-day trip. It was just as well as we were heading out in just two days! 

Sea Kayaking in the Bahamas - baptism of fire

This year Wilderness Guides are spending the winter months in Great Exuma, Bahamas. Chris has come back to work for Dallas and Tamara Knowles of Out Island Explorers and is leading sailing and sea kayaking trips along the beautiful cays. Meanwhile, I'm taking this opportunity to get my watersports skills up to scratch – something that is long overdue!

I haven’t been sea kayaking in over a year and I worried that I might have forgotten any skills I had previously learnt. So while very excited I’m also feeling quite nervous. The goal is to improve my skills sufficiently to be ready to accompany Chris and his clients on a three day kayaking trip. I need to know that I’m not going to be the slowest paddler out there. And there’s not much time – the trip is in just under 2 weeks!

Chris is, of course, my trusted instructor and I thought, not for the first time, that it’s a very good thing that he’s so patient! We arrived down at our beach to find two kayaks waiting for us (thanks again Dallas!) but the sea was wild! A heavy wind was blowing on shore but Chris was calmly encouraging as we kitted up with our buoyancy aids and spay decks.

The kayaks here in the Bahamas use rudders which are popular in the US and Canada but not something I have seen in the UK.  After a few minutes adjusting the rudders we were all set and ready to go….

Not so fast I’m afraid – the wind was so strong I ended up beaching myself before I even managed to get my spray deck secured to my kayak – a rookie mistake not to paddle out far enough to ensure this doesn't happen! I sat there laughing at my predicament while Chris came back for me and suggested we try launching again. Take two and with a little help from Chris, I was safely on the water.

We knew before we had set off that this was going to be a baptism of fire as the winds were so high but with only two weeks until the trip we didn't want to postpone. We had set ourselves a short route of 0.6 miles to a cluster of sail boats. They seemed so close when we were on shore but the high winds meant I struggled to keep my boat going in the right direction. In fairness though, I think this also had quite a bit to do with a) forgetting to use the rudder and b) confusing my left with my right when I finally did start to use the rudder.

I battled the waves for almost an hour without reaching the sail boats – that’s right; it took an hour for me to go less than 0.6 miles! Meanwhile Chris stayed nearby, expending minimal energy keeping pretty much stationary!

Of course I found it incredibly frustrating that I was making so little progress but I still managed to laugh throughout - perhaps another reason why I was so slow??  Being out on the sea and feeling the warm water splash onto my face was exhilarating. I had forgotten how much I loved it.

We turned back for the shore just in time to see the last of a beautiful sunset. I was quicker now as the wind was behind us and I felt sturdy in my boat, pretty confident that I wasn't going to capsize.  As we came closer to the beach, Chris warned me about rocks to the left of our landing spot. He paddled between them and me as he knew my control of the kayak was still far from perfect.  Eventually he decided to clip a rope to my boat and tow me the last few metres. It was a deflating end to a hard paddle but in these conditions it was the right decision for our safety – and his sanity I’m sure!

I clambered out of my kayak and looked back out to sea. Lesson one was over and I was exhausted. If things continued like this I definitely wouldn't be ready for the trip. Chris put his arm around me and assured me that if I could stay upright and keep smiling in these weather conditions then I could manage anything. Either way, I’m looking forward to our next outing!